i do prefer to pull the trigger on the spot welder for only about 1/2 second. the studs to pop off every now and then, but this helps when pulling them off. just a little jiggle and they are off “no hole no grinding no cutting”. plus you can often reuse the studs.
also i think it is a little more precise than a slide hammer for hard to get areas or for small dents that dont need much. you dont wanna slide hammer to hard or you will create a high spot which makes more work.
a quick little technique to find high and low spots if you didnt know is sanding the area. its easy to ID the high and low spots. high spots will not allow the sand paper to sand around it, low spots wont allow the sand paper to sand in it.
A common mistake is to just work on the direct (low) damage and not the high areas. It is important to work on both areas at the same time. You want to push in on your highs as you pull out on your lows. This will allow the metal to return to it’s origional shape with out forcing or streching the metal.
Most dent consist of a low and a high area. The high area may or may not be very noticable. If you thing of throwing a rock into a lake, you notive that it causes the dip where the rock went in, but also it will cause a wave (high) area. Metal acts the same way. When it is pushed in in one area, it forces the metal have highs (waves) in other areas. Your direct damage is the low pint of impact and the high is your secondary damage. It take a little more focus to locate the secondary damage
What you mean by high area? the t pull is to pull the dent out right? is the high area visible which is why you are hammering it. High are an in a bump facing outward of the damage area?
i do prefer to pull the trigger on the spot welder for only about 1/2 second. the studs to pop off every now and then, but this helps when pulling them off. just a little jiggle and they are off “no hole no grinding no cutting”. plus you can often reuse the studs.
also i think it is a little more precise than a slide hammer for hard to get areas or for small dents that dont need much. you dont wanna slide hammer to hard or you will create a high spot which makes more work.
a quick little technique to find high and low spots if you didnt know is sanding the area. its easy to ID the high and low spots. high spots will not allow the sand paper to sand around it, low spots wont allow the sand paper to sand in it.
A common mistake is to just work on the direct (low) damage and not the high areas. It is important to work on both areas at the same time. You want to push in on your highs as you pull out on your lows. This will allow the metal to return to it’s origional shape with out forcing or streching the metal.
Most dent consist of a low and a high area. The high area may or may not be very noticable. If you thing of throwing a rock into a lake, you notive that it causes the dip where the rock went in, but also it will cause a wave (high) area. Metal acts the same way. When it is pushed in in one area, it forces the metal have highs (waves) in other areas. Your direct damage is the low pint of impact and the high is your secondary damage. It take a little more focus to locate the secondary damage
What you mean by high area? the t pull is to pull the dent out right? is the high area visible which is why you are hammering it. High are an in a bump facing outward of the damage area?
It is just a T-puller. It just uses the force from the pull that you put on it. It helps eliminate popping or forcing the metal.
What tool is that he is using? the thing he is substituting for a puller. The cork screw looking thingy.
3seconds is way to long you only need to tap it
Way Cool!
Les
(with a side cutter)
If you grab the nail at the base and spin it you can reuse the nail and there is less to grind